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Edward Scissorhands. Alice in Wonderland. Miss Peregrine’s Home For Peculiar Children. Acclaimed costume designer Colleen Atwood has worked extensively with quirky imaginings of director Burton. And in between sketching up the blue pre-rumpled suit for Eddie Redmayne in the new Fantastic Beasts and Where To Find Them, Atwood was busy working on the “slightly Victorian” Miss Peregrine. Here, she talks through the creative design process with GRAZIA, how film set life has changed over the decades, and the odd challenges when cast member’s feet grow out of shoes during filming!
GRAZIA: There is such a big responsibility in bringing characters to life that have forever existed as figments in children’s imaginations. At what place do you start when you begin to work on a film like Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children? Where does the design process begin?
Colleen: “The process begins with the screenplay. First I read it, then meet with Tim [Burton, the director] to get his take on the story and characters.”
Where did you draw inspiration from when designing for Eva Green’s character?
“I wanted her in period, but with a slightly Victorian take on the time. The fact that she was transformative to Peregrine, influenced me with certain bird aspects, fluttery cuffs and hem and slightly pointy shoulders with a touch of feather embroidery.”
Are you present on set when the cast are shooting?
“I go between set and the workroom where we construct the costumes. We also prep there for the next day, once set is up and running.”
How would you describe your relationship with Tim Burton?
“Tim and I have known each other for a long time and still love the collaboration.”
You have designed for countless incredible films, were there any that presented any particularly unique/outstanding challenges?
“Each one has it’s special challenge. In Miss P., the cast kept growing, especially their feet you would come in one day and suddenly the shoes were too small. We started ordering ahead of growth curve because the shoes were custom made!”
I featured an interview with you for Alice Through The Looking Glass where you discussed how you were inspired by 80s Japanese designs to create Alice and her return to Underland. Do you find yourself most inspired whilst travelling abroad or studying cultures that are not your own?
“It is amazing to see the world of design, It truly does inspire. Different use of colour and line challenge and excite me.”
Congratulations on your Critics Choice Award nomination for Best Costume Design for Fantastic Beasts. Skamander’s suit is “rumpled”. How do you pre-rumple a suit?
“You do a certain amount of damage to fabric before cutting the suit, lightly submerging then line drying, steaming then cutting. Once its made, you crunch and wrinkle.”
From your very early work to today, we’re really interested in how processes have changed on film sets?
“The size of films I am doing now is bigger in general .The advent of visual effects has changed how things are photographed, as well as costume requirements.”
Of the actors you’ve worked with, who was most genuinely interested in the fashion direction around their character?
“The actor is generally more concerned with who they are becoming as characters, so not really thinking that much about fashion.”
Without naming names, have you ever designed something for a star that hasn’t been well received by the actor/actress?
“Every once in a while, something that felt good at one time isn’t working in the moment. It is a process of collaboration, so the costume has to work for the actor. That being said, it’s always good to have a back up.”
Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children is out on Blu-ray and DVD January 4. Or buy it first on Digital HD now. ITUNES. GOOGLE PLAY.
