Bold seems to be the buzzword in the beauty circles of New York, London and Milan fashion weeks. Gone is the infamous ‘no-makeup makeup’ (for the most part), with the runways expounding a brave new beauty doctrine: bold, black eyes. The manifestations were vast and varying; they came in bottom-heavy renditions, smoky and sooty top lids, shadow-heavy sockets, inky waterlines, and of course, the cat-eye, forever a runway hit, this time amped up with volume and gusto.
Eyeliner was to be the hero: kajal and kohl came to the fashion party with cape on and muscles flexed. Beauty rules, so to speak, such as never line your waterline, were swiftly rebuffed. Classic beauty tropes were binned and it was a case of anything – and everything – goes, particularly when it came to eyes. The blacker, the smudgier, the sootier – the better.
Bottom shadowing was a trend to keep an eye out for (literally), with an emphatic focus on under-eye shadowing and smudging at Versus, Alberta Ferretti, Coach, Giorgio Armani and Ashish. At Armani, makeup artist, Linda Cantello, played on imperfect imbalance, both by way of colour and shape, contrasting stark white with strong black, and balancing cubist lines on top and bottom for the ultimate graphic eye. Tommy Hilfiger hit high notes of rock ‘n’ roll; it was the Tommy girl with a kick of grunge and sex, eyes were dark and smouldering, an exaggerated feline shape crafted wholly out of shadow. There were even flecks of sparkle amongst the rubble at Ashish, with M.A.C playing with black glitter and Blacktrack Fluidline eyeliner pots, arming lids all the way up to the brow bone with blurred-out coal-like shadow.
Time to arm yourself with black eyeliner and gritty shadow; the bold, black and beautiful is back.