A visual lexicon of colour played out across Fashion Month. First, iconoclast Jeremy Scott send his gaggle of Gigi’s and Bella’s down the runway with neon bobs in a sweeping palette of highlighter hues. At Marc Jacobs, the same model hair (i.e. Hadid et al.) was treated with colour differently, this time with spontaneity and streaky in nature, polished Vidal Sasson-esque bobs were painted intermittently with jewel tones of emerald, amethyst and ruby. While at Sies Marjan, it was all about the trickle-down effect; a kind of reverse ombré, with roots painted with baby blues and candy pinks that faded out to conventional colour. And much like the sartorial spin of the colour-wheel, the local consumer is also playing with colour. Just ask Stuart Bane, Colour Artist for Wella Professionals and colourist at Sydney’s premier salon, Valonz. “Hair colour is having a major revival,” Bane notes. “Clients are definitely embracing colour more, we have gone through quite a long spell of ‘nudes’, but now we are seeing a much more diverse palette.”
As the diversification of hair colour gathers pace, how does the regular consumer embrace crazy (or not so crazy) colour? On set for GRAZIA’s Until All Hours shoot, Bane explains how to live colourfully.
Recently, we’ve seen hair colour play out at Fashion Month in myriad ways. How do you see this translating in Australia?
Hair colour is having a major revival with it being seen in various shows and taking on different concepts. The beauty of these more vibrant shades is that they are now less daunting to the wider audience and instead of it looking edgy and rebellious, people are embracing colour more and experimenting with a whole spectrum of shades. As with any runway look, the Australian clientele will dip into this, but, in a softer approach, and hairdressers will adapt their techniques to give the playful effect but in an effortless finish. Wella Professionals Color Fresh Create is a perfect way to achieve this.
Away from the runway, how should one approach colour in the everyday?
My best advice for clients and colour is that they should think of the total look, take into consideration wardrobe and make up and have fun. Don’t feel like you should follow trend if it isn’t your personal style. Your hair colour shouldn’t override your own personality, but if you’re a colour Addict then there is endless fun to be had!
What are the colour trends for this year?
Clients are definitely embracing colour more, we have gone through quite a long spell of ‘nudes’ being worn by most and now we are seeing a much more diverse palette. The 2018 Pantone of the year ‘Ultra Violet’ is a representation of on-trend jewel tones; pastel shades are amplified for opulent intensity and shine. Personally, I am seeing copper also make a huge revival, from last season’s ‘blorange’ in its palest form, this is also having more vibrancy injected and on the warmer side of the colour spectrum!
Is there anything that should be avoided when it comes to hair colour?
Home lightening should always be avoided and don’t try and push your hair, the quality of your hair has a huge impact on the final colour choice.
Brunettes are notoriously more difficult when it comes to crazy colour, what advice do you have for those wishing to experiment with colour but have darker hair?
Naturally darker clients are perfect for more intense jewel tones, the only problem they may face is lightening the hair enough for the chosen shade. A build-up of darker colour pigment contains a lot of red which may affect the end result, if this is the case, maybe start with extensions to see if you want to take the journey to your chosen hue.
You look after Renya’s pink hair, and she had once told me what a commitment it was. Can you explain what exactly goes into dying your hair a bright colour like pink? And should those who are commitment-phobes steer clear of experimental colour?
Any of these vibrant shades or pastel shades need a pre-lightened base, THIS is the hard part, especially if you’re naturally dark. Once this is done you can have so much fun changing it up. Pastel shades like Renya’s pink need topping up quite regularly as there is less tonal value to paler colours. A customised colour conditioner, like the System Professional Color Save range, will keep this refreshed weekly at home and a salon top-up every 4 – 6 weeks.
Are there ways to colour your hair boldly yet temporarily?
The beauty for commitment-phobes is that the colour applied after the lightener is only semi-permanent, so it’s easily changed. That’s when the fun happens! Wella Professionals Colour Fresh Create is a direct dye that will wash out of your hair, if you want some intensity without commitment, this is the way to go. For less intensity and even LESS commitment, you can use Wella Professionals Perfecton by Color Fresh, it’s a water-based product that can give you colour for One Night Only…or until you wash your hair!
What are you tips for maintaining colour?
A good home care regime is SO important, especially in Australia where we are fighting so many elements that affect colour fade. System Professional Colour Save range has a whole collection of products suitable for all hair types and I always advise that I see my clients for a glossing treatment every 6 weeks which will keep the colour constantly fresh, even if the highlights / balayage still don’t need refreshing.
All forms of hair dye can wreak havoc on the health of hair, what care and treatment should go into hair colour to avoid damage?
Our colours contain a lot of conditioning properties that assist with hair health, condition and shine. When having any sort of lightening service I advise to have WELLAPLEX added to your colour, which helps to create bonds within the hair further strengthening the hair structure and rebalancing pH levels. This reduces damage and makes hair stronger and healthier. WELLAPLEX No3 take-home Hair Stabilizer, used weekly, will maintain results at home.
Hair accessories feature throughout the shoot, and have been huge both internationally and on a local level. What is your favourite hair accessory trend and do you have any tips on how best to use them?
Hair adornments have been a huge feature in the past two seasons, I love vintage brooches or earrings worn as accessories in the hair, hair bands worn low with second-day hair, or scarves braided into loose ponytails for effortless looks in 2018.
The ‘lived in’ hair trend seems to be living on in today’s shoot. How do you achieve this look and make it look editorial as oppose to I-slept-through-my-alarm?
‘Lived hair’ is all about putting in foundation and then finishing with the right product for your hair type. Take random sections and wave in loose sections, using EIMI Ocean Spritz or Dry Me for a grittier texture.
Do you see a return to polish coming back? What other hairstyles are big for this year?
We have seen waves for DAYS and with ‘90s fashion comes ‘90s hair… polished straight super-slick hair will be making a revival in 2018, with those brave enough taking it the next level with a ‘wet look’ finish.