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When the world’s style elite gather to pay homage to high fashion inspired by the East, it’s bound to influence what’s to come. After the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute Gala’s 2015 theme of China: Through The Looking Glass, ornate Chinese detailing soon became the oldest “new look” in fashion.
Kendall Jenner in a Mandarin-inspired quilted jacket by Danish brand Ganni
Credit: Getty Images
The theme has crept back into the fashion spotlight over the past three fashion seasons, securing itself prime position as one of the hottest trends of 2017. Yet today’s designers, while of course adding their own contemporary spin, are following in the footsteps of French couturiers including Paul Poiret, Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior, all of whom referenced the rich culture, intricate designs and opulent printed fabrics associated with the Far East.
Pregnant Beyonce wore a Gucci kimono from the SS17 collection to a recent NBA All-stars game in New York
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The Spring/Summer 2017 collections, runways were awash with Chinese-inspired silhouettes in colourful florals adorned with embroidery, feathering, mandarin collars, contrasting binding and silk fringing. From robes at Alberta Ferretti to pyjama dressing at Prada, the Asian influence was undeniable.
Gigi Hadid gives us satin pyjama dressing at its best
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And as with any fashion trend that ventures outside the ordinary (who would have expected bedroom attire would become the craze of celebrities and millennials worldwide during 2016?), the best approach is to confront it like a warrior. It is after all, the lunar year of the Fire Rooster. Here’s a list of what to do (and just as importantly, what not to) when plucking up some sartorial courage.
Akira Resort 2018
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Loewe SS17
Credit: NOWFASHION
The graphics
Ornate florals intricately embroidered in rich scarlet red, jade green and golden mandarin hues are reworked into offbeat Asian blooms. From Loewe’s Japanese bird print (above) to Restless Sleepers’ ornate butterfly motifs and Paule Ka’s textured florals, there has been plenty to refurbish three-quarter-length skirts, soft silk blouses, long-line jackets, cropped pants and voluminous dresses. Masters of the trade, such as Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, imaginatively combined signature prints with Asian influences while the grande dame of prints and patterns, Diane von Furstenberg, presented a bold combination of geometric shapes and sophisticated Oriental flowers.
How to wear it Either as a standout on its own or get clash happy with a decidedly modern mix of abstract patterns or even plain denim, as per a pregnant Beyonce wearing her $20,000 Gucci SS17 kimono courtside (shown above). But make sure there is a common colour to keep things balanced and change the scale of your print by mixing bigger florals with smaller.
Prada SS17
Credit: NOWFASHION
The pyjama suit
The return of the palazzo-type drawstring pant and piped-silk-shirt combination to high fashion, otherwise known as “night suits” or pyjama dressing, has legitimised comfortable sleepwear as a day and/or evening option. Miuccia Prada sent out chinoiserie-style pyjamas with ostrich feather trims, mandarin collars and delicate piping, while Dolce & Gabbana used gloriously bright prints to ensure maximum impact. And Giorgio Armani, long known for his signature pant-suits, played around with fluid soft-silk drawstring pieces, all with a strong nightwear influence. Alexander Wang, meanwhile, went literal, showcasing boudoir-vibe pyjama sets.
How to wear it Start simply, incorporating a single pyjama separate into your look. Pair your silk PJ shirt with denim jeans or shorts. Or mix your silk pyjama pants with a T-shirt and blazer or leather jacket. Elevate the look with statement jewellery, heels and sleek hair and makeup. Remember, confidence is key.
Bella Hadid in Anna Sui SS17
Credit: NOWFASHION
The robe
Last season’s sleepwear-as-daywear phenomenon focused mostly on tops, pants and slip dresses. This season the trend’s made a natural progression into kimono-style coats and robes. The endless list of designers rocking the robe — a 2017 wardrobe staple for day and night — is a clear indication they’re a viable option for most dress codes. Anna Sui sent out Bella Hadid (above) in a sultry feather-trimmed robe and lace-trimmed camisole. Alexander Wang paired luxe bath-gowns with lacy undergarments, while Alberta Ferretti’s vibrant floral-embroidered silky robes and black lace floor-sweepers floated over tailored pants and bralettes.
How to wear it Like pyjama dressing, robes are the ultimate in versatile high-luxe loungewear. A kimono-style robe can be worn with a slogan tee and pair of cropped silk pants or layered over a relaxed draped blouse and shorts. They’ve even made it to the seaside, replacing kaftans and sarongs as the perfect cover-up post dip.
Emporio Armani SS17
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The accessories
Just to be clear, when it comes to accessorising your Eastern look, the trick is to avoid looking like you’re channelling Memoirs of a Geisha. No one is suggesting you pair a silk pyjama set with platform Getas clog/flip-flops. However, do opt for one standout earring, a long drop necklace, an arm full of bracelets, or cinching in your kimono robe with a feature belt. If you’d rather just dabble in the trend with a single Asian-look accessory, consider a platform shoe, fur-trimmed slide or printed bag.
Salvatore Ferragamo SS17
Credit: NOWFASHION
Miu Miu, Embellished Faux Fur Slides, $1270. SHOP SIMILAR
the shoes Soar sky high in Salvatore Ferragamo’s monochromatic cork platform sandal (above), released for this season in an array of hues. Try Dries Van Noten’s nod to the traditional wooden Geta in a lacquered black that adds extra height. Gucci’s gigantic platform wedges in black patent with a velvet upper and embroidered detailing reference the Orient. Prada’s chunky patent leather platform heels also give a nod to the Geta, while Versace presented spongy “flatforms” — the flat version of platforms — with thong-like functional straps. Slippers, this season’s cosiest footwear, also gets an Eastern spin. The Bally voodoo mink slide, Fenty Puma fur slip-ons, Chloé shearling slides, Miu Miu embellished faux-fur slipper and the Gucci Princetown leather flat are all a walk on the exotic side.
Bag the trend: an image from the Gucci SS17 campaign
Credit: Supplied
the bags Gucci’s aptly titled Magic Lanterns collection for SS17 includes classic styles such the GG Marmont, Sylvie and Dionysus, all of which have undergone a bold Oriental revamp. At Balenciaga, models paraded totes printed with floral designs, while Dsquared2 went mythical with its Manga Punk clutch and evil eye-embellished bags.
Bally Resort 2017
Credit: Supplied
The celeb fan club
Sienna Miller chose a Chinese-inspired navy blue and red pyjama Prada suit for a film screening.
Kendall Jenner has been spied on numerous occasions wearing kimono-style robes, and not the pink Victoria’s Secret kind, but Etro orange and Ellie Saab Couture with feathers. For a night out at LIV nightclub at Miami’s Fontainebleau, for example, she chose a navy blue and red pyjama look.
Gigi Hadid stepped out in London wearing a black silk pyjama set by Fleur du Mal.
Sofia Coppola donned a silver pyjama set for the red carpet.
Jessica Alba did the same in Dolce & Gabbana, as has Constance Jablonski in a pink PJ ensemble.
Selena Gomez was snapped in Derek Rose London look, as well as a grape-coloured PJ set and robe with heels and clutch.
Rihanna wore a pink PJ pant, bralette and robe combination, and a blue and gold pyjama set on the red carpet.
Cara Delevingne, Kim Kardashian, Chloë Sevigny, Hailey Baldwin and Emily Ratajkowski have all stepped out in embroidered robes and/or embellished Asian PJ sets this year. The list goes on …
German model and blogger Alexandra Lapp in a Zara kimono at Berlin Fashion Week
Credit: Getty Images
ABOUT THE AUTHOR Penny Hunt is a celebrity stylist, journalist and fashion commentator with two decades experience in luxury fashion. Follow her on Instagram.
