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No matter how myopic our view of portraiture becomes in an age of self-authorship and, perhaps more contentiously, self-inflicted distortion, the practice remains at its core an exchange between two. Few mediums or genres are as reliant on this reciprocity as portraiture is; few practitioners understand this as well as Russell James. In a career spanning two decades and a practice encompassing landscape photography, photojournalism with a focus on global Indigenous cultures, and, conversely, fashion photography, the West Australian photographer has amassed a body of work that privileges above all that exchange between two oftentimes vulnerable parties, no matter who his subject happens to be – be it a Clinton or, arguably most famously for James, an Angel.
On occasion of returning to Australia last month to accept the inaugural International Impact Honouree as part of the Australian Fashion Laureate, James reveals to GRAZIA the stories behind the portraits and their subjects who have left an indelible impression on his eye. Below, he speaks to the power and prominence of mentorship in his life and work – a process that, similarly, extends both ways between subject and lensman.
“Returning home to receive an Australian Laureate Award was an extraordinary experience. I feel very lucky to have received recognition in different countries around the world, however, there is nothing quite as special as being recognised in the place you love most by the people from within your own industry. As International Impact Honouree, I realise it comes with a responsibility to give back to the industry that does so much around the world. Receiving this award reminded me that mentorship is everything. At different stages of my career, I have been so fortunate to have had mentors to turn to and count on. Even now, there are people I call for advice and I often reconsider my approach after receiving their counsel. The need for mentorship never stop, both in providing it and receiving it.
“So the images I am presenting here aren’t perhaps ‘fashion’ or some of the supermodels that may be anticipated, however, they are images [of subjects] who have had a great impact on me.”
From the first day I met Karlie as a rapidly-ascending model, she asked me countless questions about, ‘How can I help?’. I have never met a person at such a young age who understood how powerful a voice she could have because of the visibility of what she was doing. And, more impressively, she wanted to use that voice for positive change.
I invited Karlie to attend a global conference during United Nations Week in New York in 2011 as an ambassador for [the] 'Nomad Two Worlds Foundation’. I felt like a proud dad watching her talk to people from all walks of life, from Heads of State to women who attended the conference to tell attendees about horrific social conditions in the hope that the world would react.
"She recently launched Kode With Klossy, [a scholarship program and summer camp initiative to promote STEM education amongst young women] that provides young women [with] free educational opportunities in computer coding. This may not sound very ‘fashionable’, however, she has recognised the enormous outcomes that it can provoke. And she is still asking questions!
"I consider Karlie a mentor because she reminds me to never stop asking ‘why’ and that doing good never goes out of fashion. I took this shot of Karlie during a Vogue Mexico fashion shoot and I felt like I could see her thinking while we were supposed be shooting."
"Rihanna has always intrigued me. Her talent is so powerful and she seems to always follow her gut instinct. She is also never afraid to be disruptive in her approach. That is incredibly important to me. I don’t feel she stands on high ground and preaches that she only does ‘right’. She just continually carves out her way, in her way. She is a kid from Jamaica who embraces her past and keeps recreating the future.
"I took this shot in a studio that was full of racks of clothes that the record label, stylist and magazine were very hopeful we would use. However, I showed her the texture of the wet tobacco leaf on the skin because I had recently seen home furnishings made from the same leaf in an effort to create a healthy industry around tobacco. Like me, she loved the texture and it became the wardrobe and concept for our shoot."
"Clifton is a mentor to me because he was able to give me a sense of what ‘connection to country’ truly means. In the far North West of Australia, he connected me to the significance of art and music to his culture. Clifton has a rare gift of being able to explain these things and, additionally, he is one of the most amazing artists and vocal performers I have ever known.
"He has toured with Hugh Jackman in recent years, from Broadway to arena tours where Hugh gives Clifton an important solo performance on stage that he later explains. I love watching audiences be moved by him. He speaks through art and music in a powerful way."
"I could say that Hugh is a mentor because of the many A-list films, shows, performances and appearances [he stars in] that make you wonder if he has been cloned because of the sheer number of quality productions.
"However, what makes Hugh a mentor to me is the fact that he has just never stopped being a good guy. His concern for the world around him is genuine, as shown by the philanthropic activities he and his amazing wife Deb engage in.
"This year the small foundation I founded called Nomad Two Worlds has reached a point where we are providing scholarship grants. We are helping a Native American museum rebuild its important environmental education grounds that were destroyed by the recent fires. None of that would be possible if Hugh hadn’t taken the time to put 'Nomad’ performers on stage during his shows to talk about reconciliation using the power of the arts."
"I have probably never felt nervous about shooting anyone – except Barbra. When I fist met Barbra, I was not aware I was going to be photographing her at the end of that particular day. I found myself coming off the beach in shorts and t-shirt and was rushed to shoot her at her home with her family who were going to her birthday that evening.
"In those unlikely circumstances, though, we formed a friendship through our mutual love of images, light and most especially, dogs. My love and companionship with dogs has helped through challenging phases of my life. I could see Barbra and I shared something in common there and I realised how tough it could be to be perhaps the most famous person, even within an industry of famous people.
"Through the years, Barbra has trusted me with album covers, private family shoots, magazine shoots and most especially, to shoot her backstage for the first time in her career during concerts. She was reluctant to let me take this shot with her incredible array of awards that she discreetly keeps in a library she rarely allows to be filmed. However, she allowed me to make the case that ‘you earned it’."
"This photograph isn’t a political narrative. It is about two people who have had an enormous impact on the world and who, at different times, have trusted me. Over the years, Former President Clinton has taken the time to explain to me how the first free slave nation was formed and invited me to travel with a small delegation and help engage large fashion brands into philanthropic activities. While in Haiti opening a new industrial complex that was vital to the restoration, he introduced me to then Secretary Clinton.
"Most recently, I was invited to their home to take portraits of them both and they allowed me to shoot some candid moments that I feel show great insights into who they are."
Tile and cover image: Russell James/Courtesy of the artist
