Pica’s inspiration on the left, and the new collection

Rising above the Gulf of Naples, the Chanel Spring / Summer 18 collection is born. The Italian city, rich in history and abundant in colour, is Chanel’s latest beauty muse, and whilst Italy may seem an unusual detour for the Parisian house, there is an inextricable link; it is the birthplace of Lucia Pica, Chanel Global Creative Makeup and Colour Designer. Under the Neapolitan sun, Pica reimagined an Italian summer, however side-stepped away from the clichés. There is not a pizza nor gelato in sight – instead, it is the collision of the area’s ancient roots and modern incarnation which proved the ultimate inspiration for Chanel’s beauty brain. In a surprising yet complementary palette; reds, blues, yellows, golds, greens and blacks play out; an undoubtedly summery digestion of colour.

Heeding the siren’s call of home, the ever-changing landscape of Naples, layered with history, meaning and metaphor, provides the ultimate inspiration for colours, moods and techniques, that offer a warm, rich and unexpectedly Mediterranean approach for the house. Aptly called Neapolis – or ‘New City’ – the collection reflects Naples’ origins as an ancient Greek colony as well as a city looked at afresh by Pica.

Both the natural world – the volcanic landscape of Vesuvius and the Phlegraean Fields, to the waters of the Bay – and the manmade architectural and artistic legacy – including the pigments of the frescoes in Villa Poppaea to the Baroque churches and priceless Caravaggio paintings within – are explored and prove ripe for possibility in methods and colours of the collection. Take for example, the new POUDRE A LÈVRES lip pigments, which take a cue from the colours and tempera technique of Pompeiian frescoes. A powder is mixed by the wearer with a balm, generating a blurred, painterly effect – with as much or as little intensity as desired. It is the colours of Italy as imagined by Pica:

“When I close my eyes and think Naples, these are colours I see…”

Be it a mantle of brilliant green, sun-parched slopes or antiquated pastel architecture; Pica courts summer romance with such a palette. The story of Naples is bound to that of Parthenope, the siren whose body was washed up on the shores of where the ‘Old City’ stood – the original incarnation of Naples was, in fact, named after her. With her tempting yet deadly song, alongside her female power and beauty, it is an ancient mythology that chimes with the modern one built by Gabrielle Chanel. Here, the wearer is asked not just to put on the colours, but to embrace the attitude of Naples; its grand, indomitable and optimistic style says as much today as it ever did.

The many faces of the city are reflected in an all-new offering for eyes, lips, face and nails. For the face, inspired by the sunset-washed mountains, the JOUES CONTRASTE blush in Foschia Rosa is a poetic dusting of pink that enlivens the complexion. For eyes, green is the star. The eye collective runs the gamut of green, from dusty grey-green to metal blue-greens, even the residue of volcanic ash plays its part, as does the intricate detailing of local doors.

The offering for the lip is slightly more streamlined, but perennially punchy, nonetheless. In addition to the debut of artisanal lip powders, shades of bright poppy and raspberry comprise the ROUGE ALLURE and ROUGE ALLURE VELVET lipsticks, whilst ethereal shades glisten in the ROUGE COCO GLOSS, including Parthenope, a nude peachy caramel and Aphrodite, a watery baby blue that can be worn alone or layered over Brightercolor. The ROUGE ALLURE INK shades, Entusiasta – a matte orange – or Eterea – a perfect peach pink – complete the lip line-up.

However, escapist glamour comes in its purest form via canary yellow nails, set to be a trend for the season. Giallo Napoli – ‘bright Naples yellow’ – refers to the alfresco vista, and a shade keynote in the Neapolitan palette. Alongside this sunny offering, sits an equally vibrant orange, Arancio Vibrante, and two more muted shades, a sorbet pink, Nuvola Rosa, and a soft minty green, Verde Pastello.

It is the summer beauty we dream of, the summer beauty we taste, and the summer beauty we’re happy to peddle, under any hot sun.

The CHANEL spring summer Neapolis Collection is Available on January 7, 2018 from Chanel boutiques.