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If Karl’s scale replica of La Tour Eiffel was the yardstick, the fashion and beauty of Haute Couture Fall 17 was indeed grand. For a week which celebrates the most adroit fashion ateliers, the high-ranking hair and makeup artists were called to beauty arms, with the likes of Eugene Souleiman, Peter Phillips, Pat McGrath, Guido Palau, Odile Gilbert taking centre (back)stage. With artful finesse and a steady hand, model faces were painted with a foiled finish and disco turns, whilst hair was lathered up and left, or crimped.
Here, a reflective look upon the most stellar trends that shook the haute couture runway.
DISCO EYES
Another interpretation of the forever-in-vogue le smoky eye, Peter Dundas’ cadre of models had all-nighter peepers in pop purple and teenage angst black. Dundas’ beauty order was quite schizophrenic; with dance floor grunge at the front and a schoolgirl party at the back, with girly bows. Whist the eyes at Armani Privé were awash with sooty black and grey, smudged both and atop and under the eye with drama.
SUD STRANDS
One of the most enduring images of fashion week, Eugene Souleiman took clean hair to the next level. His haute take on soaps and suds? Leave them in. Hair was washed, lathered and left, with models parading down the runway with foamy, soapy hair – some were puffed through, others were entirely covered – it was whipped and creamy hair creativity. Splish splash they were takin’ a bath – couture style.
MIRROR MOUTH
Makeup mirrored (quite literally) Margiela’s iconoclastic perspective, with lips made metallic and holographic. John Galliano’s ingenious vision played out via the craftsmanship of Pat McGrath, who used hybrid shades from her Matte Trance range; Elson, Deep Void and Full Panic with an ombré effect. But, it was its finishing touch which proved most stellar – structured red foil and transparent paper made for some seriously heavy metal mouths. Mirror mirror on the wall – Maison Margiela’s are the fairest (and futuristic) of them all.
BABY CRIMPS
Fendi’s Haute Fourrure Collection called back the crimp, with a softer, less offensive version than its ’80s counterpart. A fresh, modern take, hair was gently crimped and pulled into a low half-up style.
UNTAMED BROWS
“This intrepid adventurer feels at home all over the world. She’s an explorer who crosses the give continents and shows us a beautiful, bare, slightly untamed beauty that is unaffected,” explained Dior Makeup Director Peter Phillips. Wild and bold, brows were the signature beauty look at Dior, swept upwards with Diorshow Brow Styler and Diorshow Bold Brow.
WHITE OUT
Graphic whites were the beauty order at Valentino, with white painted on the inner corners and atop the lash line, in one short, chunky strip. It made for some gloriously wide eyes as models sauntered down the runway.
SHOOTING STAR
Suds and soap aside, Eugene Souleiman also spray-painted model hair with golden stars. Slicked-down and wet – it gave new meaning to helmet hair, with a gold star spray painted near the crown. There were also glitter “shower caps” – adding a big sparkle to bath time.
