For Dior Cruise ’19, Maria Grazia Chiuri continued to ride the unrelenting wave of feminism she so frequently leans on, this time seeking inspiration from a rather unexpected source of feminism – the Escaramuzas, a band of female Mexican rodeo riders. Musing on the work of Chilean novelist Isabel Allende, an exploration of womanhood through the Escaramuzas was deftly told by Chiuri, who in a way honoured the classic equestrienne tropes of a Dior past – under the reigns of Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Dior himself.
With such strong women inside the arena, backstage, it was ironically two men that were behind the beauty; hairstylist Guido Palau and makeup artist Peter Philips.
Beauty rode high in the saddles – with hair an obvious homage to the horse. The notable reference for Guido Palau, the hairstylist looked to the animal’s tail to inspire the hair look – a long, low ponytail which swung gloriously, much like its muse. There was no horseplay here, rather, a sleek, straight shape, parted down the middle, smoothed and tied artfully around the elastic with more hair – the thickness matching the length of a fine comb’s teeth, according to Palau.
The strong equestrian mood naturally made its way to model faces, too. Peter Philips, Creative and Image and Director for Dior Makeup looked to the “proud and beautiful Mexican Escaramuza horsewomen” to contrive his makeup look: “strong, timeless and chic.” The beauty had bravado and strength, yet a softness to it. Brows were strong and square, angular at their edges and almost masculine in character, whilst the eyes were left almost untouched, just lightly dusted with neutral shadows.
Skin was to be a veil; sheer and subtly radiant, and such beautifully clean complexions were crafted through Dior’s new Backstage Face and Body Foundation, which also made its debut in the area to great success.
Evoking the spirit of these heroines, Chiuri’s tale of female liberation lives (or rides) on.
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“THE BACKSTAGE LINE CONTAINS THE FACE AND BODY FOUNDATION IN 16 DIFFERENT LEVELS OF INTENSITY FOR 6 SKIN TONES, WHICH MEANS 40 DIFFERENT COLOURS THAT ALLOW YOU TO ADAPT IT PRECISELY TO EACH COMPLEXION. AS LIGHT AS AIR AND WATERPROOF, IT MELTS INTO THE SKIN FOR AN ULTRA- NATURAL FINISH AND A PERFECT, RADIANT COMPLEXION. I ALSO USED THE LIGHT HIGHLIGHTER AND CONTOUR SHADES FROM THE DIOR BACKSTAGE CONTOUR PALETTE TO TRANSLUCENTLY SCULPT THE FACE. AND THEN I USED DIOR BACKSTAGE GLOW FACE PALETTE N°001 UNIVERSAL, BLENDING STROBE WHITE AND STROBE GOLD TO ADD SUBTLE SHIMMER AND HIGHLIGHT THE CHEEKBONES. TO FINISH, I APPLIED A TOUCH OF DIORSKIN UNDERCOVER CONCEALER TO HIDE ANY IMPERFECTIONS.”
“EYES THAT WERE LIGHTLY MADE-UP THANKS TO THE DIOR BACKSTAGE EYE PALETTE N°001 WARM NEUTRALS, WHERE ONCE AGAIN I CHOSE THE PALER SHADES, PRIMER, SHIMMER BEIGE AND MATTE NUDE FOR SOFT, TRANSLUCENT EYELIDS.” THE FOCAL POINT OF THE EYES WAS THE BROWS, WHICH WERE DEFINED WITH PRECISION USING DIOR BACKSTAGE BROW PALETTE 001 LIGHT OR 002 DARK DEPENDING ON SKIN TONE. “I BRUSHED THE EYEBROWS CAREFULLY THEN FILLED THEM IN TO CREATE A ‘CONTROLLED WILD LOOK.’ TO START WITH I CHOSE THE LIGHTER SHADE FOR THE WHOLE BROW, FOLLOWED BY TOUCHES OF THE DARKER SHADE IN DARK TAUPE OR DARK BROWN.”
“VERY NATURAL LIPS THAT WERE FIRST SMOOTHED WITH DIOR ADDICT LIP SUGAR SCRUB, THEN VERY SUBTLY HEIGHTENED, TRANSPARENTLY, WITH A GLOSS FROM THE DIOR BACKSTAGE LIP PALETTE IN PINK, WHICH ADDS DISCREET SHINE.”
NAILS WERE GIVEN A NATURAL LOOK.